Known by some as the perfect, everyday wristwatch, the Rolex Datejust, introduced in 1945, revolutionized wristwatches with its automatically changing date function. As Rolex's flagship model, it showcases the brand's innovation and elegance. The Datejust's Oyster case, waterproof and robust, houses the perpetual self-winding movement. Renowned for its versatility, the timepiece remains a symbol of prestige and timeless style.
The Rolex Datejust 16220 was introduced in the late 1980s and introduced a sapphire crystal and a brand new calibre 3135. Many collectors consider the introduction of the sapphire crystal as the end of the vintage Datejust era. So many collectors loved the warm hugh of the acrylic and the way it bends and plays with the light. Others see the sapphire as necessary progress. As sapphire has a hardness second only to a diamond, these crystals are nearly scratch free forever (though we have seen some scratch, it's harder to do so). The calibre 3135 introduced a full balance bridge and upped jewel count, and an added 8 hours of power reserve. Note that the previous generation calibre 3035 already had the quick-set date function, so that's nothing new. The addition of the sapphire crystal, alongside the calibre 3135 makes these watches absolute tanks that will run forever and look good in the process.
With reference 16220, the second digit '2' indicates that the watch features an engine-turned bezel. Engine turning, also known by its French term, guilloché, is a decorative method that involves mechanically engraving a complex and recurring pattern onto a material using a specific machine. While Rolex has ceased the production of engine-turned-bezels, discontinued models featuring this style can still be found in the pre-owned market. Visually similar to the more common fluted style, engine-turned bezels exhibit a series of ornamental grooves engraved around the perimeter. The ref. 16220, with its more refined profile and now-discontinued bezel, possesses the vintage appeal that Rolex enthusiasts crave—while still maintaining the impeccable performance of a timepiece fresh from the assembly line.
The Rolex Datejust 16220 utilizes the automatic caliber 3135, one of the most bullet-proof calibres of all time. The calibre 3135 a highly reliable and accurate movement which was introduced in 1988. It boasts 31 jewels, a 28,800 beats-per-hour frequency, and a 48-hour power reserve. The caliber 3135 features a quickset date function and a free-sprung balance wheel, exemplifying Rolex's dedication to precision and innovative engineering.